Frequently Asked Questions
How difficult are Window Saver kits to install?
Both mounts are built around peel-and-stick adhesives. No miter joints are required, anywhere. If you are mounting to the casing, your task is brief. If, however, you decide to mount to cleats you have tacked inside the jamb, you will have to cut cleats to length and tack them in place. (Use 4d finish nails about 10" apart; no caulk is needed.)
How noticeable are Window Savers?
You will have to point them out before your guests notice them. They come in Dark Brown or White, to complement your decor, and are as invisible as we can make them. Plexiglas actually transmits 5% more light than glass and therefore clearer than glass. If you use a 1/8" Plexiglas sheet, it will stay flat, and you will never notice them. Thinner grades become wavy and lose their invisibility.
Will Window Savers benefit me in the summer?
Yes, if you have air conditioning. Air conditioning, particularly in high temperature or high humidity environments, can often use more energy than does heating. The same insulating and draft-stopping power of Window Savers that reduce your heating costs will also reduce your energy costs for air conditioning. Window Savers are even superior to insulated glass in this regard because, in a typical installation, they produce a wider dead-air space and thus insulate better.
How long do Window Savers last?
We don’t know for sure because plastic and adhesive manufacturers never give guarantees. We simply use the best materials. Our first systems were installed in 1994, and show no sign of failure. In designing Window Savers, we chose materials proven to have long life and durability. Our adhesive actually grows stronger with age! Our steel is galvanized. Our magnets are heavy-duty. Our system should provide you with years and years of comfort and savings.
Can I buy Window Savers nearby?
We only sell direct, not through stores, thereby providing you with savings and direct customer service.
What kind of savings can I expect?
You will save in three ways:
Your energy bills will decline noticeably during the summer and winter. With today’s energy costs, Window Savers pay for themselves in just one or two heating or air-conditioning seasons.
You will also save on your initial cost. Including Plexiglas, Window Savers usually run less than 25% of the cost of custom-built Plexiglas units.
Window Savers can help you avoid window replacement, saving you $300 or more per window and making your windows perform better than anything any replacement.
Will Window Savers work on sliding-glass doors?
Yes, but because the doors are usually wider than the available Plexiglas, you must rig a temporary divider where two sheets meet. See the final page of our assembly instructions for more information.
Can I use either system in my mobile home or RV?
Yes. Usually you must build a shadow-box frame around the window inside (to clear the window’s operators), but once that is done, Window Savers will work well. See the final page of our assembly instructions.
How do I handle oversized windows?
With a hanging pin — a “headless nail” on which the plexiglas is hooked. Windows over 20 square feet or over 5-feet wide should have a single pin at the top center. Hanging pins cannot be used with weather strip; Plexiglas can either hang or stand, but not both.
How should I maintain my Window Savers?
Cleaning: Avoid most solvents and detergents on your Plexiglas. An old cotton t-shirt with any printing cut off will serve as a good cleaning rag. It should be only slightly damp. Wipe gently and as infrequently as possible. For greasy spots that don’t yield to water, use a small amount of denatured or rubbing alcohol on a water-dampened soft cloth.
Static Removal: Use a soft, water-dampened cloth. The static should disappear immediately.
Storage: Stand Window Savers on edge or lay them flat. If they must lean, give them a board to lean against so they do not take on a curved shape. Keep them protected with a dust-cover. As you gather them together for storage, avoid letting them rub against each other as any dust caught between may scratch the Plexiglas.
Scratch Removal: Light scratches only: apply toothpaste rubbed with your finger. There are also plastic cleaners/polishers available. Proceed with caution as sometimes the end result may be worse than the scratches.
One of my Window Savers is fogging up. What should I do?
Moisture is getting in, somehow. Here are the main things to check, in order of probability:
Your draft seal may be open—something may be caught between magnet and steel.
Your corners may be allowing too much air through—a little putty should help.
Outside air may be leaking around the jamb (because the packing in the wall has settled) and coming into your air gap beneath the inner casing. Remove the casing and re-stuff the rough opening.
The sealant around the outside casing may have dried out and is allowing rainwater to soak the jamb on its outer side. The resulting dampness evaporates into your air gap and causes fogging.
Other sources of water inside the wall may be producing the same result:
a pinhole in a water or heating pipe somewhere above the window
a roof leak (possibly from ice dams)
condensation in the wall due to a broken or missing vapor barrier
What Plexiglas thickness should I buy? From whom?
You want 1/8'' thickness (3/16" or 1/4" for acoustical applications). There are two grades: kraft-paper protected, and plastic-film protected. The latter is cheaper, but there is no noticeable difference between the two when covering a window. (When stripping either type, roll the paper or film around a broom handle to make the job easier.) The 1/10" or 1/12" thicknesses are less expensive, but should only be used on very small windows. The purpose of the thicker material is not to improve the insulation (the air gap, not the plastic, does the work), but rather to stay flat. Inside storm windows are invisible only when the sheet plastic is not wavy. Your best sources for acrylic plastic sheet (Plexiglas is just one brand, but they’re all okay) are plastics distributors, most of whom also sell to the public. You can start by doing an online search for “plastic sheet" plus your zip code and see what comes up. Home centers like Home Depot are also good sources, but don’t always sell the full 1/8" thickness or cut to size. Check carefully and shop around, as prices vary greatly depending on location.
What is your guarantee and return policy?
It’s unconditional, and for one full year. We’re so sure that you will be satisfied with your Window Saver kit, that we'll provide you a refund if you're not happy. We promise you the following:
Window Savers will stop window drafts completely. If they don't, contact us immediately and we will help you correct the problem.
Room temperatures will be steadier—more uniformly warm or cool.
Outside noise will be less noticeable—Window Savers reduce noise almost 50% (9.5db) in 1/8" thickness, and 67.5% (14 db) in 3/16" thickness.
Window condensation will cease—no more fog, sweat, or sill puddles!
You will save more than you invested, and always in less than two years. With today’s high energy costs, you will usually recoup your cost the first year, particularly if your present windows are drafty.
To help you make the most of these promises, please contact us should you need any technical help before, during and after your purchase and installation.
If your Window Saver kit doesn’t live up to our promises or your expectations, please contact us to arrange for the return of the used and unused portions of your kit within one year for a no-questions-asked refund. Returns within 60 days will be subject to a 15% restocking fee, and returns after 60 days will be subject to a 20% restocking fee. Please note that shipping fees are not refundable, and return shipping is your responsibility if you choose to return.
Can the Window Saver system adapt to round or curved-edge windows?
Yes, our system adapts to radii as small as 10". See the final page of our assembly instructions.